拉力游欧洲(外一章:湖上)

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CAVA
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拉力游欧洲(外一章:湖上)

Post by CAVA » 2007-07-16 8:18

在过去一年的不同阶段,我跟某人发表过以下言论:下次度假去Como湖住一段时间吧;阿尔卑斯山从飞机上眺望好壮观,什么时候得去看看;戛纳和尼斯好不好玩?结果由他策划的两星期变成了:米兰机场租车,住Como和Maggiore湖之间的Lugano,三天解决三个湖;从Lugano往西南去瑞士属阿尔卑斯,到了高速公路上忽然决定北上Lucerne吃午饭;穿过意瑞法交界处的Mont Blanc隧道,往法属阿尔卑斯,住他的朋友家;一路南下经过Grasse到戛纳投宿,进行戛纳和尼斯一日游;沿碧蓝海岸一直往西到马赛附近的Cassis午餐,同天到达Nimes附近的朋友家;到Arles闲逛,一致同意忽略梵高纪念馆;到Luberon山区的朋友家过巴士底日;马赛机场回家。

等我发现这个计划的不公不妥之处,比如印象中的意大利假期基本被偷换成法国假期,甚至变成了环法自行车赛一样每天排得满满,旅馆都已经订好了,为时已晚。与其说是度假,不如说是在奔命。第一个星期过去,在阿尔卑斯山区的盘山公路上转了四天后,我哀叫道:我想回家了,未来十年内该看的山都看够了。

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湖上

Como湖一定在数不清的影视剧里出现过,只不过我自己在几年前才刚刚发现罢了。在星战前传二里,俊男保护着倩女去她家乡的湖上别墅里避难,那个石雕鲜花露台给我留下的印象极深。今天查资料得知其外景在Villa del Balbianello拍摄,恰恰是我们这次到了门口又错过的景点,传说拥有欧洲最浪漫的船码头。后来的一个夏日深夜,在英国电视台看了一个老电影,叫《A Month by the Lake》,Venessa Redgrave主演。富有美丽的她在Como湖边的饭店里谈情说爱,闲时搭了渡船到Bellagio逛,电影把湖上风光表现得淋漓尽致。这个饭店我深刻地怀疑是Villa d’Este,好象就是最近Casino Royale里James Bond养伤的地方,湖上最豪华的饭店,数不清的名人住过。

Wiki上Villa del Balbianello的照片:

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虽然位于意大利的北方,湖区的气候相对温和,棕榈和柠檬能长得很好,在Como和Maggiore还遇到了我心心念念的栀子花。从买的画册看来,Como湖沿岸茂密的树林草地间总有百来幢附带私家园林的豪华别墅,分别属于各个时代、不同国籍的达官贵人。我私下里揣测这么多的房子,一定需要大量的建筑师来设计,无数的艺术品来填充,川流不息的知情识趣的文人艺术家来妆点场面,比如当年的司汤达。

Garda湖周围的山势最雄壮,Maggiore湖的Stresa,镇上的Grand Hotel曾出现在海明威的《永别了武器》里,附近有著名的三岛:美丽岛Isola Bella,渔人之岛Isola Pescatori和Isola Madre。美丽岛被某一代的主人意图塑造成舰艇的形状,房子在前,花园在后。从湖面的船上看,花园部分作梯田状,花草树木和大堆石头雕像将它塞得满满当当,说它奢华还是恶俗,看各人口味而定了。总之我们没有花费11欧元的门票进去参观,在外围晃了晃算数。倒是对面的渔人之岛,基本维持了窄巷小屋,渔网小船的朴素风貌,饭馆里的湖鱼也顶可口。

渔人之岛上的饭店

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美丽岛小巷

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上回去过Como湖后对Bellagio念念不忘。我自己猜猜,Bellagio在意大利语里应该是“美好的居住地”的意思,又有湖上明珠的美名。它小巧精致,背依青山,面朝看不尽的湖上风光。在三个大湖地区最方便的交通工具是渡轮,分行人和车辆两种,线路众多,所有城镇哪怕再小,都至少有一个渡口。从西北角的Menaggio(丘吉尔喜欢度假的地方)如果开车去Bellagio,绕来绕去,总要一两个小时,坐渡船不过15分钟。不知什么原因,摆渡这种方式在我看来总是特别有意思,Como湖上的渡口尤其给人浪漫的感觉。

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在Villa Carlotta那扇雕花的铁门和一汪湖水之间,忽然想起了仙境这个老土的词语。从小我们被灌输“上有天堂,下有苏杭”的概念,我在国内住时更是三年两头往杭州跑。现在觉得,如果家里其他人也能来Como湖看看该有多好。和西湖相比,Como不输其秀气妩媚,而雄伟壮观处又有几分三峡的神采,堪称刚柔相济。当然西湖的美,有一半在于它的人文色彩和悠久历史,其突出的东方审美风格更是和Como湖迥异的。如果将Como湖边的建筑换成Lugano湖那种现代有效的房屋,Como也一定会失去其大部分韵味。

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Villa Carlotta是本次旅途中我最喜欢的地方。这间别墅的外形简洁,好象是新古典主义风格。所有房间比例优美,高大宽敞,采光充分,窗户不是眺望湖面,就是开往花园的绿荫和繁花。装饰属于华丽的低调,让人wow一下后眼球还备感舒适,完全不似又象婚礼雕花蛋糕又象堆物过多的古董铺子的某些豪宅。它的阶梯形花园最为出名,层层迭迭的绿色郁郁葱葱。受惠于温和的气候和湿度,花园里有柑橘类植物编成的走廊,以芭蕾女郎雕塑为中心的栀子花园,仙人掌类植物蔓延的半山坡,还有生长茂盛,色彩丰富的大丛绣球。花园的编排得当,引人入胜。据说四五月份,漫山遍野盛开杜鹃花的时候,这里为湖上风景绝佳之处。

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1690年建成,几经转手后Villa Carlotta如今是国有博物馆,收藏了一定数量的艺术品。而当年的Carlotta公主,18岁嫁为王妃后,从母亲那里收到它作为新婚礼物,却并没有在这间受到所有游客不绝赞叹的屋子里住过几天,且在25岁那年病逝。看似拥有一切的人物,比如当今在Como湖拥有其它豪华别墅的那一群,其快乐的时间总和不一定超过付出几欧元来这里参观的人们吧。
Last edited by CAVA on 2009-10-03 3:10, edited 9 times in total.

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2007-07-16 8:25

The top 3 look like Stockholm and/or Copenhagen.

Middle ones look like the Alps, Switzerland or Austria or Germany.

The lower ones, especially the alley between yellow buildings and the coast look like Mediterranean countries. Italy or France?

CAVA, I was going to tell you, we are getting a new season of Miss Marple on PBS now. I'm too familiar with the cases to have any suspense, but it's fun to see all the major British actors parade through these episodes.

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Post by karen » 2007-07-16 8:34

是去了Lake Como吗? 景色真美。
第八张象是bouillabaisse, 切片小面包伴着rouille. :whistling:
Last edited by karen on 2007-07-16 8:40, edited 1 time in total.

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-16 8:36

Nej nej, they are 3 neighbouring countries, mon amie Jun. The Alps part is correct though.

It's indeed fun that the new Marple series makes its effort to show a collection of British stars (minor or major), but I really don't like this new Miss Marple character, she is too young, energetic and loud for my humble taste, she also has rather rosy cheeks (too much makeup)?

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-16 8:42

karen wrote:是去了Lake Como吗? 景色真美。
第八张象是bouillabaisse, 切片小面包伴着rouille. :whistling:
嘿嘿,都对。

karen
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Post by karen » 2007-07-16 8:57

那我关心你在Lake Como可见到George Clooney啦? :f20:

Now I remember, 6-8 are at Nice! :love011: #6 is some street up the hill from the farmer's market, right? #7 is the harbor. Where did you stay?

karen
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Post by karen » 2007-07-16 9:04

And since you went to three neighboring country, the ones I don't recognize must be from Switzerland, right? Some town at the foothill of Alps.

Knowing
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Post by Knowing » 2007-07-16 9:08

Why do you girls have to do this to me? It is Monday, I am well rested and all ready to concentrate and work hard. Now I am back to the "I don't want to work I just want to travel" mode. :-(
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CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-16 9:12

1, Lake Como, Bellagio
2, Lake Como, outside Villa Carlotta
4, Mont Blanc
5, French Alps, a town I don't even know its name
6-7, Nice :-D. I was hoping Jun would say: hey that's Italy :lol:
9, Our usual haunt near Nimes

We actually stayed in Cannes, went to Nice for a day. But 8 is not Nice or Cannes 8) .

小K不要忘记你刚从杭州和西藏大大FB了回来 :evil:

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2007-07-16 9:19

I knew it was somewhere down south.

I'm not crazy about the lake district in Italy (only been to the neighboring Lake Maggiore) -- I'm not in Italy for the lakes!

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Post by karen » 2007-07-16 9:33

We actually stayed in Cannes, went to Nice for a day. But 8 is not Nice or Cannes 8) .

小K不要忘记你刚从杭州和西藏大大FB了回来 :evil:
Well, nobody is gonna be able to tell where that is from a bowl of fish soup. :spamafote: They are all over the coast. Thought I might be able to keep on guessing, if you include a photo of the wine you were having with the soup. :-D
Last edited by karen on 2007-07-16 9:39, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by karen » 2007-07-16 9:38

The courtyard at Nimes really reminds me of the one we stayed by at Chinon. It usually has a cozy restaurant tucked at the corner, where you can while away three hours at the dinner table.

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-16 9:41

Well, nobody is gonna be able to tell where that is from a bowl of fish soup. They are all over the coast.
Fair point :lol: Though considering bouillabaisse orginally comes from Marseille, I thought you might have guessed. We had lunch in a fishing village outside Marseille called Cassis, which is like Marseille people’s weekend spot. It is also very famous for its Rose wine.

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Post by karen » 2007-07-16 10:00

Oh, no wonder it looks so much like the bouillabaise I had. I spent a week at Sanary last summer, and had dinner like this almost every night. And yeah the Bandol rose went just great with the soup. :love019:
Did you drive along the coast with a car? Or did you take the train? The train track is right next to the coastal highway for some part, and wow, I saw some hairpin turns.

小涵
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Post by 小涵 » 2007-07-16 21:18

前三张我还以为是stockholm.

等着看游记.

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Post by 狸狸 » 2007-07-16 21:20

科莫湖……我流着口水说,我又想放假了了了了 :cry:
Perhaps we grows very strong, stronger than Wraiths.
Lord Smeagol? Gollum the Great? The Gollum!
Eat fish every day, three times a day, fresh from the sea.

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Post by lindamm » 2007-07-16 21:27

我正想说cava你去了瑞士呢 :-P
3是Lucern吧,这回一定不会错了。
我也很喜欢como湖,各个小城的grilled的鱼很好吃。有没有出海(or出湖?)

我没去过法国南部 :verysad: 但nice给我感觉是比较商业化,我真正想去看得是薰衣草,记得是笑嘻嘻还是白金写过一篇游记讲在南部租车玩乐两周的,搞得我到现在念念不忘 :verysad: 可惜今年的计划又黄了

抢了你的地盘,cava见谅

another pic in como
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the next is Stockholm, but it appeared like Florence
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stockholm again
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CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-16 23:39

没错,3是Lucerne那座著名的桥,烧毁后又原样重建。Stockholm的水域虽然也蓝,但周围没有那么多高山。

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2007-07-17 11:00

CAVA同学是我认识的人里唯一的英国人,所以抓着你抱怨一句:怎么就把被啃夫妻俩活宝给扔咱们头上了涅?Posh的节目真让人骇笑也不是,干呕也不是,英国老祖宗的土产果然厉害,把美国俗人的恶形恶状都比下去了。

豪情
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Post by 豪情 » 2007-07-17 11:05

:lol: 早年不成材的浪子不都往殖民地送么? 发财成名了固然本家有光, 潦倒了也眼不见心不烦.
我有一张尼斯的照片就是在这小巷照的, 一模一样. 卖KABAB的店虽然关着, 巷子里极浓郁的羊肉味. 我对NICE和CANNE, MONACCO都感觉一般般, 比较喜欢附近的海边小镇.

silkworm
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Post by silkworm » 2007-07-17 11:19

好看好看,鉴于我近期都不得出游的现状,呼唤CAVA经常性地写这么好看的游记,以飨我。

karen
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Post by karen » 2007-07-17 11:39

怪不得呢,看了你的照片后我纳闷怎么同个假日游了北边的Lake Como和南边海岸? 这日程怎么安排的? 原来不是cava的计划。 半个假期在路上奔波了,真可惜。

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-17 12:15

其实路上看到了很多风景,不过属于been there, done that类型。

蚕,一定努力飨你。 :mrgreen:

很旧式妇女地护短说,被啃还是不错的,坏就坏在他老婆。看她一眼都难受。

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2007-07-17 12:21

Nah, they're the same kind of people. These 2 deserve each other.

Knowing
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Post by Knowing » 2007-07-17 12:32

I agree. they two stay married so far, there must be a reason.
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karen
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Post by karen » 2007-07-17 12:47

They are the same lot, but people forgive Beckman more readily because he actually has talent.

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2007-07-17 13:23

He actually has talent ... when he keeps his mouth shut and speaks with his foot.

She has talent too ... or is that not talent but an unrelenting will and drive?

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-18 5:13

湖上部分写完了。征求大家意见,是在篇头继续呢,还是在回复里更新,还是再开新贴?主要是还有很多照片,怕打开速度慢。

Knowing
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Post by Knowing » 2007-07-18 8:00

人家的小巷怎么能这么干净?一颗颗鹅卵石都是本色的。。
再开个新贴吧!多写点 :admir001: :party005:
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笑嘻嘻
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Post by 笑嘻嘻 » 2007-07-18 9:04

新贴 :party005: :party005: :love007:
云浆未饮结成冰

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-07-18 9:16

好的

tiffany
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Post by tiffany » 2007-07-18 9:27

看的我痛下决心说:中了彩票先去欧洲住上半年
乡音无改鬓毛衰

Knowing
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Post by Knowing » 2007-07-18 9:49

看的我痛下决心说:等美元升值了就去欧洲住上半年
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karen
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Post by karen » 2007-07-18 10:05

美元会回升吗? :gros_yeux_tristes:

豪情
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Post by 豪情 » 2007-07-18 11:15

这样高的双赤字, 不会.

Knowing
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Post by Knowing » 2007-07-18 11:18

I consider the chance as good as winning lottery.
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